We arrived in Cambodia in the midst of a national holiday. Pchum Ben is a sacred Buddhist holiday, which lasts for 15 days. The final three days are public holidays, and tomorrow is the last day of the festival. This means a lot of businesses are closed, which is too bad, as there are several musical instrument shops nearby.

The streets are decorated for celebrating Pchum Ben

But let’s back up a little.

We passed through immigration and customs without any problems, and boarded a smaller bus to Phnom Penh. It’s a fairly long drive, so we stopped for lunch at a roadside café along the way. The food was tasty, and I had my first Cambodian beer. The bill was $12USD for the two of us, which seems crazy cheap. I can’t get lunch for myself for much under $20 back home.

My first local beer

It was another two and a half hours to Phnom Penh. Rice paddies not yet ready for harvest, cows grazing near the side of the highway. Billboards advertising beers, energy drinks, 5G phone plans and Krud Cola. Simple buildings made of corrugated metal held up by metal frames. Occasionally some ornate statuary forming gates to properties — enormous plaster elephants adorned with bight paint.

I began to think the economic revolution that was so much in evidence in Vietnam had passed Cambodia by. But the closer we got to Phnom Penh, the less that seemed to be the case. While much smaller than Hanoi or Saigon, Phnom Penh boasts some impressive skyscrapers. I’m told this is all very recent, and mostly due to Chinese investment.

Some of the modern skyline in Phnom Penh

We settled into our hotel, and did our best to relax while we waited for our cyclo tour of the city. Adele is really starting to feel this cold we’ve both been fighting. About half our group are coughing and sniffing and sneezing. For Adele, I think it’s mainly draining her energy.

A scooter bearing three people, including a toddler, passes between the cyclos

Still, we went on the cyclo tour, and for dinner afterwards. Then back to the hotel slightly earlier than we might have if we were both healthy. We took a tuk-tuk with another couple who also wanted to come back a bit earlier. Hopefully a good night’s sleep will help.

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